July 9, 2009...1:59 am

Participating in Day Drinking, When in Rome

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Hello hello!  Sorry to have gone MIA yesterday- catching up with stuff at work and at home is always hectic isn’t it?  That and I forewent blogging last night to watch Prep.  Which I hate, and I am so glad Entertainment Weekly agrees with me.   And it’s not like I haven’t tried, people.  I mean, no one, NO ONE loves trashy teenage stuff more than I do.  Gossip Girl a serious part of my life, and I consider Jawbreakers to be a classic film.  But this show sucks.  My heroes over at the Daily Intel exlpain it oh-so-eloquently here

Perhaps the most disappointing part is the fact that their clothes all SUCK.

Bitch, you bore me.

Uh.  So anyway, in attempt to get some sleep this evening, I am going to foego my normal recap of fun things like peanut butter, humor, and apples to being you more of our trip to Italy.  You can read the first recap here if you missed it.

When I left off, I was discussing the joys of enjoying the art of Rome with my new family.  One particularly exciting day (though they all were amazing) was on Friday when we went to the Vatican Museums.  We woke up super early so we could get to the Vatican at 8am when it opened.  We all made sure to dress appropriately, which was a good thing because these signs are very intimidating. 

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It should be noted that even the Vatican runs on Italian time, which means obscenely late. The doors didn't open until 8:40! Benedict XVI likes to play it cool...

Of course, everything we saw was absolutely breathtaking, particularly the Sistine Chapel, duh.  Sorry, no pictures were allowed in there :( .  But immediately after viewing the world’s most important frescoes, Michelle and Mike made a new friend…

Fido here was surrounded by many other of his kin in the Hall of Animals.

Fido was surrounded by many of is brethren here in the Hall of Animals.

And I enjoyed getting to know St. Helena in the Pinacoteca.

Mike is really awful at taking pictures, isn't he?

Mike is really awful at taking pictures, isn't he?

Mike didn’t even mind my marveling at all the nude statues. 

The famous Belvedere torso

The famous Belvedere torso

Oh yeah, I completely forgot to tell you- I hardly have any FOOD PHOTOS!  Don’t hate me!  My future MIL doesn’t know about the blog so it would have been beyond awkward.  Please forgive?

Anyway, at one point, we took a break and had a snackie in the Vatican’s self service cafeteria.  I decided that I really wanted a dolce, which is Italian for a sweet biscuit type thing.  I got a sweet bread filled with a chocolate almond filling covered in a sugary glaze.  It was to die for.  We were all hungry, and still had several gallieries to get through before we would be ready to leave for lunch, so this little treat filled me up nicely with lots of satiating fat and yummy sugar. 

Again, I apologize for the Google images.

Again, I apologize for the Google images.

We enjoyed seeing everything else.  I went gaga over some rare early translations of the epistles of Paul…

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I have done some graduate work in illuminated manuscripts, so these got me randy

and the beautiful hall of Barberini tapestries. 

Dork

Dork

By the time we had seen everything, we were famished and it was time for lunch.  And what a lunch we had.  We chose a restaurant near St. Peter’s called Graziella e Alberto da Spinsi a S. Pietro.  We should have known we were in for an experience like no other when we took a look at the decor.

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Awkward

Awkwarder

Awkwarder

Awkwardest

Awkwardest

Graziella herself came to greet us- sweating like a chimney, in a grease-stained undershirt type thing, with a booming voice and a jolly disposition.  Immediately before we even opened the menu, she offered to bring us a Caprese salad.  Ok.

Outs was much bigger and much more green.

Ours was much bigger and much more green.

It was huge.  It was a moutain of lettuce, beautiful chunks of tomato, fresh balls of mozzerella, and sprigs of pungent basil dressed with olive oil, salt and pepper.  We totally dug in.  The mozzerella cheese was literally the best I have ever had- it wasn’t tangy like those fresh mozzerella balls you buy in deli containers, but instead it had this creamy texture that tasted sweet at first then exploded savory, salty flavors.  The best part was, by the time we got to the bottom of the plate and there was just lettuce left, we saw that the remaining greens were literally swimming in a several centimeter deep pool of oil.  Aah Italy. 

Next Senora brought out several plates of bruschetta.  Now, contrary to popular belief (especially in Italian American Northern New Jersey), bruschetta is not defined as Italian bread with a tomato topping.  Traditional bruschetta is simply rounds of Italian bread rubbed with garlic, evoo, salt, and pepper and toasted.  And when it is done right, Lordy is it good.

Carb and fat heaven

Carb and fat heaven

Graziella clearly knew what she was doing- the “flesh” of the bred had a slight green tint to it, and when you bit into each crostini, the oil and salt would flood each part of the bread.  It was so delicious I didn’t even once worry about my hips.  I had like four pieces.  When we were 3/4 of the way through with the first plate, Graziella had one of her peons waiters bring us an even bigger platter of bruschetta, and she hollered to us from the kitched, “Mangia!  Mangia!”

We were already full by the time our actual meal came, which consisted of a small pizza, a side of white beans, and carciofi all romana or artichokes Roman style.  Carciofi all romana basically is a marinated artichoke that is salty and tangy at the same time.  Graziella used tiny Jerusalem artichokes, so we were able to eat the entire thing, stem included!  There were three little ones in our serving, so we each enjoyed one.

Carciofo alla romana

Carciofo alla romana

Our white beans, or fagioli, were perfectly cooked, drizzled in olive oil, and seasoned with oregano, basil, parsley, s and p.  They were clearly made from dried beans and had a chewiness that went perfectly with our crusty bruschetta.

Again, swimming in olive oil.

Again, swimming in olive oil.

Aah, the pizza.  Mike chose it, and it was simply the traditional thin crust Italian pizza with marinara, a little mozzerella, and a light sprinkling of Gorgonzola.  Their crust was the best we had all trip- crusty and crunchy but with a little fluff and body.  Michelle and I each had a tiny sliver and let Mike have the rest, which he loved.  Biting into that pizza and tasting the combination of the fresh bread, savory tomatoes and intense cheese was so amazing.

Gorgonzola pizza

Gorgonzola pizza

A couple times throughout our meal, we desperately needed our drinks refilled, and we would turn to Senora, who was taking a rest at the table next to us and ask her politely if our drinks could be refilled.  She always responded with a booming “Certamente!” which means “of course.”  Then she would wait for another 5 or so minutes before asking one of her servants waiters to get us drinks.  It was hilarious!  We were clearly guests in Graziella’s house and she was in charge of the timing. 

Post pizza and other nummies, we were completely stuffed and shocked that we ate so much!  Seriously, I think the second our Mt. Everest-sized caprese salad arrived at the table, we knew we were in for a once-in-a-lifetime experience, and mentally prepared ourselves to mangia mangia, even if we got “too” full.  Cappucinos were most definitely in order, and the warm liquid felt so perfect in my full tummy.

Such a vacation treat

Such a vacation treat

But no, Graziella was not done with us.  She approached our table and announced, “I bring you dolce,” and when we started to protest, she turned on her heels and returned to the kitchen, only to reappear with a huge piece of tiramisu.

It actually looked a lot like this

It actually looked a lot like this

None of us are huge tiramisu fans, but we were stuck, and knew we had to try it.  It was honestly the best tiramisu I have ever had!  It was a lot less “coffee”like and was much softer and fluffier than the types I have had at home.  Think less like a sponge and more like a pie.  Loved it.

Ok, it was time for the check, or so we thought.  Until Alberto, Graziella’s shadowy figure of a husband, shows up at our table with a bottle of limoncello and three shot glasses and says “Non costa!  Non costa!”  (No charge.)  My handsome stud of a fiance, asked him in Italian (he is fluent- I know, drool, what a dreamboat!) to join us for the shot, but Alberto pointed at his watch and returned to the kitchen.  Graziella don’t let her peeps mess around on her dime, yo.

We each looked at each other, overindulged beyond belief, but decided “When in Rome.” 

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Whilst Michelle was pouring, we discovered that the bottle had expired in 2006. Whoops!

The wet spot on my chest is because of course I got oil all over my shirt, because clearly you can't take me anywhere.

The wet spot on my chest is from getting oil all over my shirt, because clearly you can't take me anywhere.

When in Rome indeed.  My shot went straight to my head and that was that.

The best part was when the check came.  I won’t tell you how much it was, but I will tell you that it cost more than any other meal we had the entire trip.  We were utterly shocked at the cost- and none of us are cheap people IN THE LEAST so you know it was bad.  Michelle called over to Graziella just to make sure the triple digit figure was correct and without prodding, Graziella began rattling off each and every item we had.  Bitch knows how to run her business! 

I would rather fight all of the Real Housewives of NJ, post botox, at one rather than mess with this badass superwoman.

I would rather fight all of the Real Housewives of NJ at once rather than mess with this badass superwoman.

Of course, they didn’t take credit cards, so we all pooled our cash together to make sure we left an excellent tip.  Best several hundred dollar lunch eva.

Look how tired.  You can tell Graziella had her way with them.

Look how tired. You can tell Graziella had her way with them.

Sersiouly, we tried walking around for about an hour after this meal, but we were done.  For the first time on the vacation, we headed to our hotel for an afternoon siesta in order to prepare our tums for din. 

This was our favorite meal all trip.  What a perfect Roman experience.  The bossy Italian matriarch, the ridiculous decor, the overabundance of food, the totally unneccessary limoncello.  What a wonderful celebration of life! 

More on that coming up.

Here's a hint!

Here's a hint!

Hope you are enjoying hearing about our adventures!

16 Comments

  • What a wonderful celebration of life, indeed! It looks like you had a fabulous time! The bruschetta sounds absolutely divine along with everything else, of course.

  • celebration of life – those are beautiful words! i just loved reading every bit of your graziella story, you took me right there with every bit of the absurdity. i love the way you tell it like it is. ok, do i sound like a fangirl yet?

    anyway, i remember the tiramisu in italy being so much better than over here too – lighter and less cake-y. i also thought it was fantastic how they drown everything in oil and wash it all down with wine and/or liquor. the way life should be!

  • The decor in the restaurant made me smile. :D I cannot wait to go to Italy some day. I can’t wait to read more!

  • Haha, I was highly entertained by the Graziealla story. And I am soooo jealous of the food that you are eating…. my oh my… so is it fabulously superior to any Italian food in the US like I would imagine?

  • the meal sounds fabulous and worth every penny :) sometimes you just have splurge, and in Rome is definitely one time to do that!

  • I have got to meet this Graziella woman! You’ve got me wanting to plan a trip to Rome! What a lovely afternoon of family, conversation, culture and FOOD! Your descriptions had me salivating – there really wasn’t even a need for pictures!

    It sounds like you had such an amazing time! LOVE it!

    PS – Fitz and I would like to set up a dinner/drinks date. What do you think?

  • I totally agree about NYC Prep… I only watched half of it this week b/c it was so bad! I loved your Rome recap… omg hilarious! The bill was probably annoying but I don’t think anyone messes with that lady…

  • Magnificent.

    You literally enjoyed every moment of this vacation.

    Happiness Awaits

  • I love teenage drama as well, but that show annoyed me.

    I can’t pick my favorite thing you ate. Actually, I can. It’s the gorgonzola pizza.

  • acookinthemaking

    The whole experience of that meal sounds incredible. I loved reading about it!

    PS-I also am NOT a fan of NYC Prep.

  • I read this to my husband what a great story we loved it! And love love love your pics of the art!!

  • It looks like an amazing trip! It totally makes me want to go to Rome.

  • [...] Recipes Participating in Day Drinking, When in Rome [...]

  • Anna

    I just started reading your blog and I love it…your attitude about food and fashion and your appetite for life are just contagious!! I particularly love your no-nonsense attitude to fashion (I think we must be built somewhat alike…I hear ya on the minimizers…) and the realization that another grown woman enjoys Gossip Girl AND fine art and culture. Just wanted to say ‘thanks’ for a very enjoyable blog…I know I’ll keep reading!

    Sally

  • [...] Now back to bus-nass.  I gotta bust out these Italy recaps so I can get back to blogging about my daily eats.  For some serious art porn and sexy marble torsoes, check out Part 1, Part 2, and Part 3.  [...]

  • wow that meal sounds DREWL worthy…hularious surroundings too ;)


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